You can do a lot with an old paint job on a VW bug, the secret is knowing what simple steps to take. Here are four steps that will make your project car new again.

If the car is all one color, a simple washing and waxing can work wonders. When approaching a ‘distressed’ car, appearance is very important.

Any rust spots must be ground away until bright, shiny metal shows and there is no rust anywhere in that area. Even a little rust can grow to a much bigger spot. Here the old Neil Young lyric, ‘Rust never sleeps’ applies. It’s true, rust doesn’t sleep. It can be cunning, baffling and powerful.

After clearing out all the rust, weld in replacement sheet metal. Fiberglass can be used and is an often used replacement. The fiberglass itself doesn’t rust, but it expands and contracts with temperature at a different rate than metal.

Therefore it is bound to break free of nice shiny bare metal eventually and give rust a chance to start again. ‘Bondo’ is a brand of fiberglass filler or putty that is often used.

Fiberglass is lighter than steel and more rigid. The rigidity is good and bad. It’s good in that it’s rigid, it holds it’s shape. It’s bad in that it is easily shattered, especially on a constantly flexing, bending, jarring car.

After the rust is addressed, the paint job requires attention. A through washing before painting is one of four steps to take before painting.

After washing, once the car is dry, wipe it down with lacquer thinner.

Be sure to tack wipe the car. This is wiping the car down with tack cloth (sticky cloth) to collect all the dust and loose crud that you do not want to get permanently in the paint.

Another step is to mask off the parts of the car you do not want paint on. An example would be the windshield glass. This also includes many other small things, lights, chrome, name plate, door handles, etc. This step can be a pain in the neck.

Do not let the tape get in the sun or even real hot. That tends to make it sticky and a *lot* harder to remove.

Paint away! If not doing the whole car in one shot, tape off the parts not being done that day to prevent ‘overspray’ from finely misting over the other surfaces. Such a mist will dull the finish of already done surfaces.

If just adjusting a dull finish (and not painting), there are a few varying degree of ‘wax’ to apply. At the more benign end of the scale is simple, ordinary car wax. At the extreme other end of the scale is rubbing compound.

What you are doing is removing the top (few) layers of paint on a very fine scale. Removing the top layer usually is sufficient to strip away all of the dulling crud on the car and polish what’s left. How much stripping away you want to do will determine whether you use ‘wax’ (light buffing) or rubbing compound (heavy stripping).

With a little TLC, your old VW beetle can shine once again.

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When chasing down an electrical problem on a used vw bug, the task is greatly simplified by a few bits of knowledge.

First, where electricity is concerned, cleaner is better. Wires and ground lugs (especially ground lugs) need to make clean, clear, direct, metal to metal contact. Be clear, there is no substitute for really clean, oil free, bright, dry, shiny metal contact.

After contact is made and is securely insured, then you can slather the connection in grease. The grease will keep air, moisture and any other foreign goop from getting into the joint, degrading it.

This is especially good on battery terminals. Because of the high currents involved in that connection, it is a really good thing if it is a good connection. Battery terminals that have been greased after a good connection is made may appear to collect more dirt, but they are clean where it counts.

Second, the VW wiring system is simple enough that nobody should feel scared off. Trust me, there are *many* cars with *much* more complicated wiring schemes.

Not as much can go wrong with a simpler neighborhood. It’s like the electrons have trouble getting lost with fewer places to go.

The origin style wring harness is really simple, even with the refinements of a solid state regulator and an alternator. And the good news is you don’t have to be Einstein to figure out a bad light or crimped wire.

All electrical appliances on a VW have two wires, positive and negative. The positive is usually red or another bright color. Negative is usually black or another dark color.

With an ignition test light (yes, the same one the Idiot’s book suggests for setting the car’s timing statically), you can test to see if a wire is ‘hot’ (has voltage). A ‘hot’ wire and a good ground (negative, see above for details) is usually all that’s needed for a light or radio (or most other electrical items on a VW).

If there is a switch involved (for example a switch on the break pedal works the car’s brake lights), the switch must work, too. Again, the test light is ideal for this type of on or off operation.

The test light even works in situations like the horn, where it is the negative wire that is switched on or off to work the appliance (in this case, horn).

Go confidently forward and fix electrical problems on your VW beetle. It’s really not that hard!

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A VW steering wheel is interesting because it reflects the move toward safety in the otherwise safety challenged air cooled gem.

Until 1968, the bug steering wheel was a solid shaft. After that, they all had collapsible shafts.   This was a much needed safety feature that was added.

1968 models do not have a locking steering shaft mechanism (synchronized to the ignition key), but 1969 models do. Before this, the locking steering column was a seldom chosen factory option, available since the mid 1950s. This meant that the ignition key was needed to unlock the steering wheel.

Due to the U.S. Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108, there were many changes made to the VW. Among them was the addition (in 1967 models) of a two speed windshield wiper and a 12v electrical system. The standard was also responsible for the elimination of the glass headlight cover. Personally, I liked the older globed style headlights. It gave a smoother line to the front fender outline.

Later safety features included padded dashboards, non reflective interior surfaces and an outwardly curved front windshield.

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The VW Beetle Convertible is a great head turner.  Coupled with the wind in your hair, the panoramic view, the head turning effect and the sheer coolness of riding in a rare antique car, you have a truly great automobile.

A VW convertible is much more practical than many other convertibles since the convertible top is more than simply a sheet of canvas.  It is a few inches thick with insulation.  That’s right, VW convertible tops are actually warm.

The tops are also simple to raise and lower, unlike some other convertible tops.  The window on the back of the convertible top is a glass affair.  Not the clear plastic that many tops have.  The glass window is, well, glass clear.

VW convertibles are so rare because they tend to act like a fishbowl when the top is left down and rain happens.  Therefore, they generally did not last.  Remember, the VW beetle has a mostly air tight passenger compartment.

The chassis is more rigid than the standard beetle.  Remember, the car had to perform without a roof.  The roof on the standard beetle provides a lot of chassis strength.  All this beefing up added more weight to the finished car.

These cars have a beefed up floor section for needed car rigidity.

Certainly one of these convertible beauties is a parade staple.  If the car has a modified motor and is a lot faster than originally equipped, it is definitely a parade staple.  The throaty exhaust makes it’s presence known.

There is no shortage of spare parts for such a jewel.  Indeed, it is probably a matter of pride to be buying parts for this car.

More than just beetles were available as convertibles.  The Karmann Ghia was also available as a convertible.  The Karmann Ghia was a bug all dressed up.  Add the convertible top and you have a real winner.

Here’s a nice Karmann Ghia:

The VW beetle convertible was made from 1949 to 1980.  There is a different range of dates for different countries.

The convertible is different from the sun roof.  The convertible is/was a true convertible, ie the entire roof folds down.  The sunroof was an opening in the roof that folds back only.

The VW convertible was built by the Karmann plant – not the VW company.  The convertible was a special version of the VW beetle.  The VW plant would supply the base automobile and Karmann would do the
rest.  This explains the VW quality throughout the car.  It was there from the start.

The convertible outlasted the hard-top sedan by a few years, a testament to it’s endearing nature.

It’s metal dash, lack of air bags, sealed beam headlights, use of leaded gas and many other things too numerous to mention add to it’s signature of days gone by.

The older models had glass covers over the headlights, the newer ones did not.  The extra curvey fenders and glass cover made the older ones more sedate and classier.

I remember that one of my brothers cut the leg from a bull on a beer can and replaced the speedometer needle with the leg.  It was cool to look at.

The running boards were not on cars of the 1960s and 1970s but imparted a level of classiness to the VW beetle convertible.  The running boards were definitely throwbacks to an earlier time but served a very practical purpose.  The channel under the running board was a channel for the heater.  The heat came from the engine compartment and was routed to the front of the car.

As an example of the car’s utility and clever use of resources, the umph for the windshield washer came from the compressed air in the spare tire.  The switch on the dash was actually a valve that opened the air pressure to the washer water, it just looked like an ordinary dashboard switch.

A great car that was made better by the addition of a graceful removable top by Herr Karmann, the VW beetle convertible is a great and very memorable car.

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VW bugs are prime candidates for converting to dune buggies. Not only is it easy to do, the relatively steep gearing on a VW bug is well suited for off roading or steep ground.

The steep gearing is shown by a bug’s ability to beat just about any car in a race (for the first 10 feet). Gearing will make it happen!

A buggy traditionally has bigger tires, a louder exhaust, no bumpers and higher fenders. Usually, there’s a full fiberglass body swap involved for that full tilt buggy look. You can add any number of refinements to this soup. The best thing is that you’ll wind up with a buggy that is uniquely yours.

This does not even consider all the engine modifications that are possible. A very short list of possible engine modifications include remote oil coolers, more aggressive cams, polished heads, progressive carburetor(s), bigger pistons and electronic ignition systems.

There are many interior changes you can make. These include snazzy stereos, steering wheels, shifters and seats.

Definitely not to be forgotten are engine parts that are chrome. A shiny engine is of particular importance since the engine will be ‘on display’. The engine is definitely where everyone can see it. And
for these cars, a clean engine is a cooler running engine.

There are many ‘how to’ books on the subject for step-by-step guides.

Strictly speaking, you can get that dune buggy feel with just a few modifications to an older bug. The older bugs are going to have more a more self contained suspension system, so changing only the fenders is a possibility.

The newer beetles had a suspension that was much more tied in to the fenders, so swapping out the fenders is a lot more complicated. The techno speak behind all this was the introduction in 1971 of MacPherson struts.

Additional Info:

Even know some dune buggys are made with corvair engines and parts, the adapation of the vw bug is what I like to focus on.   Just dreaming about using on a sandy beach is what got me interested many years ago, even know there’s not a sandy beach anywhere near my place.

A good read about Bruce Meyers will get you up to date on the original. So when you’re out looking for a vw bug for sale, it should would be nice to use if for a buggy mod at a later date.

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Chances are you’re already a vw beetle fan.  What I love about the beetle is it’s the most versatile car ever sold on the North American continent.  With it’s air cooled nature, it needed no radiator;  partly because it’s body style is so simple, it practically invites restoration and modification.

This car is not sold new in this market today for various reasons.  No airbags, lots of air pollution from the unique motor for starters.  But you can still find restoration parts at various places online.

Separating the VW body from it’s chassis was a simple affair. There were a few items that tied the car’s bottom to it’s top. Things like the electrical wiring, the steering wheel and assorted odds and ends on the dashboard. But aside from these items, that was about it.

If you want more fun, the motor is removed with only four (4) bolts.  Since the motor is  air cooled,  it’s self contained.

There were many ‘kit car’ replacement bodies offered for sale.   For the most part, you  unbolt and remove the VW bug body leaving the motor and running gear and bolt on the new body.

The VW squareback was the world’s first production car to have electronic fuel injection as standard equipment. In 1968, no less. Yes, there were several other cars that had fuel injection, a few even had electronic fuel injection. But no manufacturer had the confidence to offer it as standard equipment.

And finding parts for a VW squareback is relatively simple these days, I usually look at online auction sites first to get an idea on prices.  I do enjoy sites that show step by step rebuilds, it’s fun to watch their progress especially when details are given.   VW Bug Parts is another parts site also.

And there’s nothing like a decent ragtop restore job:

There are several vw resources that have been on the net for years. Making it easy to get the info you need to make sure the volkswagen rebuild part you are buying is the correct one. A lot of vw enthusiasts explain procedures in detail which makes the job a whole lot easier. Finding a VW Bug for sale at the right price is a great feeling.

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vwbugforsale.net is dedicated to providing informative information on the subject of volkswagen bugs.

Here you will find helpful reviews, informative information and tips and much more. This site is in the format of a ‘weblog’ so that each time I post new information, it will come to the top of the front page. This means that you can check back here frequently to see new updates to the information found here.

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Regards,
Greg Legg

If you have any questions regarding the content in this website, about the products that are mentioned, or just any questions at all don’t hesitate to contact me at the following address. I’d also love to hear any feedback on the site if you’ve found it helpful or have some ideas about how I can improve the site in some way.

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Greg Legg

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