When chasing down an electrical problem on a used vw bug, the task is greatly simplified by a few bits of knowledge.

First, where electricity is concerned, cleaner is better. Wires and ground lugs (especially ground lugs) need to make clean, clear, direct, metal to metal contact. Be clear, there is no substitute for really clean, oil free, bright, dry, shiny metal contact.

After contact is made and is securely insured, then you can slather the connection in grease. The grease will keep air, moisture and any other foreign goop from getting into the joint, degrading it.

This is especially good on battery terminals. Because of the high currents involved in that connection, it is a really good thing if it is a good connection. Battery terminals that have been greased after a good connection is made may appear to collect more dirt, but they are clean where it counts.

Second, the VW wiring system is simple enough that nobody should feel scared off. Trust me, there are *many* cars with *much* more complicated wiring schemes.

Not as much can go wrong with a simpler neighborhood. It’s like the electrons have trouble getting lost with fewer places to go.

The origin style wring harness is really simple, even with the refinements of a solid state regulator and an alternator. And the good news is you don’t have to be Einstein to figure out a bad light or crimped wire.

All electrical appliances on a VW have two wires, positive and negative. The positive is usually red or another bright color. Negative is usually black or another dark color.

With an ignition test light (yes, the same one the Idiot’s book suggests for setting the car’s timing statically), you can test to see if a wire is ‘hot’ (has voltage). A ‘hot’ wire and a good ground (negative, see above for details) is usually all that’s needed for a light or radio (or most other electrical items on a VW).

If there is a switch involved (for example a switch on the break pedal works the car’s brake lights), the switch must work, too. Again, the test light is ideal for this type of on or off operation.

The test light even works in situations like the horn, where it is the negative wire that is switched on or off to work the appliance (in this case, horn).

Go confidently forward and fix electrical problems on your VW beetle. It’s really not that hard!



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